Category Archives: Museums


The Louvre-Lens museum is barely there: almost transparent and treading very lightly on the ground (that fear of subsidence again). It rests on the site of a former pithead and is now surrounded by landscaped gardens. It’s all very clean. … Continue reading

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La Piscine, Roubaix

As a swimming pool, La Piscine must have been a haven for workers living and working in Roubaix’s textile factories. It echoed Mallet-Stevens’s call for light, sport and hygiene, but much lower down the social scale. It’s a different kind … Continue reading

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Lost in the V&A

Somehow I spent almost 6 hours in the Victoria & Albert today. Two coffee breaks, a guided tour and lots of looking and getting side-tracked. I sat upstairs on the bus to Exhibition Road, then walked along to the Albert … Continue reading

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I had intended to tag a visit to Middlesbrough onto my visit to York a couple of weeks ago, but the weather was getting colder, wetter and windier and it didn’t seem fair to visit under such circumstances. Middlesbrough needs … Continue reading

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Traditional Greek costumes

This morning I visited the Karelias collection of Greek traditional costumes, which was brilliant. The beautiful costumes – some of them absolutely sumptuous – were very well displayed, with plenty of information about them. For women, a long chemise was the … Continue reading

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Last night I listened to a pair of musicians playing traditional Greek songs – the usual sad tales of emigration, loss and homesickness. They are repetitive and predictable but undeniably powerful: Πήρες τον μεγάλο δρόμο για να πας στα ξένα … Continue reading

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It has been raining all day, so the Kröller-Müller Museum was the perfect destination. (I would have spent even a sunny day there, though.) I arrived shortly after it opened and had the gallery to myself for half an hour, … Continue reading

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