Central Library is a tremendous lynchpin for a city: at the end of Oxford Street and opening onto St Peter’s Square. I’d been inside before but never to the first-floor reading room. It’s a wonderful circular space, lit by a … Continue reading
In the fifth century Ravenna replaced Milan as the capital of the Roman empire in the west, but it wasn’t long – 493 – before it fell to barbarian forces. Theodoric the Ostrogoth ruled the Italian peninsula until his death … Continue reading
The massive Palais de Justice, which figures in Sebald’s Austerlitz. Apparently it’s been under renovation for so long that the scaffolding also requires attention.
I didn’t fancy the likely crowds at the Belvedere or the Kunsthistorisches, so I headed for the Wien Museum, where you can look at a couple of Klimts and Schieles in peace. There was also a big exhibition on Otto … Continue reading
It still hadn’t started to snow, so I headed south-east on the U-Bahn to Gasometer station. There are four gasometers, linked by a walkway; I can’t recall ever having seen a brick-faced gasometer before. Originally they stored coal gas, then … Continue reading
Armed with my Jugendstil walking guide, I went through the Stadtpark and crossed some busy roads to get to Ungargasse to look at another once-modern building. Its colour and pared-back decorative elements are quite striking compared to its neighbours, with … Continue reading
At the Karlsplatz pavilion, I bought a Jugendstil walking guide, which determined the rest of my afternoon. I headed down the covered-over Wienfluss (now a marketplace) and past the Secession building (designed by Josef Maria Olbrich 1897-98). At present it … Continue reading