The most beautiful stretch of the holiday was to Bad Iburg this morning: uphill through part of the Teutoburger Wald full of butterflies and birdsong. What could be lovelier? After Bad Iburg came another climb, with a wonderful view back to the Schloss:
Then past the site of a WWII forced labour camp to Osnabrück, which is bustling and not immediately attractive. Indeed, in parts the centre is fairly hideous – as if commerce has been permitted to plonk itself anywhere in whatever guise it wishes. It has the usual – a cathedral, a Jugendstil theatre, a Rathaus and some Fachwerkhäuser – amongst a jumble of other stuff.