Tailwind, storks, froggy croaking everywhere, and lots of Seeadlers is my recollection of today. The DDR observation tower outside Boizenburg (obviously once a prosperous shipbuilding town) probably gives a better idea of what they really looked like than the first one I saw, which wouldn’t have looked out of place in the Cyclades. (Sadly I had to miss the Boizenburg tile museum and its art nouveau collection.)
The banks of the Elbe are not always flat, and tonight’s hotel involved the second hilltop finish in two days. It’s in a windmill with sails still turning . . . stuck in the middle of a housing estate. Lauenburg is an odd town. Like Schnackenburg, it was right on the edge of west Germany. The mouth of the Elbe-Lübeck canal* is here. In earlier history it was on the salt route from Lüneburg to the Baltic, and the historic centre stretches down to the river. That part is attractive but was fairly deserted when I walked down there this evening. Up here however – amongst main roads, discount supermarkets and fast food places – it’s pretty bustling, and even Mediterranean in the evening warmth as men sit outside kebab shops and cafés chatting.
So, this is the Lauenburg split: Fachwerkhäuser and tower blocks.
* My curiosity about the canal and river network is satisfied: