Kyritz to Rathenow


Beside the River Dosse

IMG_0951IMG_0957One wasp moth and two cranes today. The sun shone and it didn’t rain, so I’m willing to overlook the headwind.

Kyritz had more Fachwerkhäuser than I have seen in Brandenburg so far; perhaps it didn’t suffer the usual Stadtbrand. IMG_0953Then lots of samey agricultural fields (so vast compared to Britain) but with a delightful stretch beside the River Dosse. This ended at Neustadt, where I took a short detour to see one of the last gasworks in northern Europe. To someone used to gasometers like the one at the Oval, this belonged in a model village. It was delightful to see it, though.

The next highlight was a hilly interlude over the Rhinow hills. In Stölln I came across the world’s oldest airfield and Otto Lilienthal. He was a pioneer of unmechanised flight, which he achieved by gliding off the top of one of the hills – finally, in 1896, fatally. In his honour a pilot landed an Interflug passenger jet – the Lady Agnes – on a grass field in 1989, where it now serves as a museum and registry office. Just below the field the last survivors of a music festival together with a trailer of mobile toilets were moving on.

Rathenow doesn’t quite fit into the Historische Stadtkerne mould of this tour: it was a major producer of optics and lenses, so didn’t survive the war intact. There is a derelict barracks compound to the north built in the 1930s, originally for the Wehrmacht but later used by the Soviet forces stationed in Germany.


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